If you use this section to grow bud send me a picture of it and I will post it in the
There is one surefire way of avoiding high bud prices and alwyas having your own fresh supply of grass: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some misguided people would make you think. Marijuana is a weed and it will grow in almost any conditions as long as the ground dose not frost. Marijuana will grow almost anywhere in the North American continent. As long as the temperature stays about 70°f or higher. Marijuana only needs a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day. Before you decide to plant some grass you first need to make a few dicisions, like hydroponics or soil, indoors or outdoors, and so on. This grow guide covers all questions anyone should have about growing marijuana and if it dont I am shure that I can anwser almost any question or anything that the guide didnt cover. so, please enjoy and happy growing!
Before you even plant marijuana you first must decide what kinds of seeds you are going to plant and how many plants you want. To grow cronic the seeds must have came out of a bag that was cronic, however there are a few exeptions just because a seeds mother wasnt verry good dosent mean that a seeds plant will not be good. How the plant was grown, harvested and the amount of care that was taken while you grow the plant will usually decide on how ponent the plant is. Not just any seeds out of the bag will grow though. The darker and harder the seeds are the better and faster they will sprout. The seeds should never be soft, shriveld up, or white colored or you are just wasting your time. Be shure you plant the seeds pointy end up. Evrey seed should grow one plant if the seed is planted and grows properly.
To germinate seeds you need about six really wet paper towels. Place all of your seeds in the middle of the paper towels and wait for about a day and check on them. Some of the seeds should have cracked open and sprouted one small root. As soon as this happens you need to put the seed in the ground or pot root end down. Most seeds germinate in only a day but some seeds will take more than a week, so be painent. When germinating be shure that the paper towles are warm and stay moist because if the towels dry up so dose the little root coming out of the seed and this will ruin the seed.
This is the stage in the plants life where it grows the most. This stage happens as soon as the plant sprouts and depending weather you choose to inside or outside this stage could last for a few weeks or a few months. Naturally the plant stays in this stage during spring and summer. When the days get short (about 10-12 hours of darkness) the plant knows winter is comming and starts the flowering stage. When growing inside you can make this stage last as long as you want it to and the plant will keep growing and growing, but sometimes the plant flowers anyway. During this stage the plant will start photosynthesizing as much as possible and concentrate all of its energy on growing leaves, branches ect. During this stage the plant will need as much lite as it can get (16-24hrs inside and outside I guess you really wont have to worry about it) and the more light it gets the more it will grow and more females and less males will appear. During the beggening of this stage two oval shapped leafs will appear and two coned shaped leafs oppsite the ovals will appear. Eventually the oval shaped leafs will fall off. Dont let this worry you as it did me when I first started to grow. A plant food of 20-20-20 is recomended for this stage in growth. Also a plant food high in nitrogen such as 50-5-9 will do the best after a week or two but until then use a 20-20-20 combination. If growing indoors keep the lights on for 24 hrs. for sprouts and before you decide to make your plant flower slowly start cutting back the hours of darkness you give the plant ex. one hr. one night and two hrs. the next night. If your plants start to get long thin or thin stalks during this stage you should run a fan on them to make there stalks stronger.
The plant will start to flower when11-13 hour nights begin.
If you are planting indoors you must make shure that the plant is at least 12'' tall before letting them flower. During this stage you will need a high middle number plant food like 10-40-7. During this stage if any light touches the plant it will revert back to the vegitave stage and kiss all of your buds bye bye. If for some reason you must check your plants during the dark cycle, let no light hit them that is brighter than a pale full moon (which is pretty fucking dark), or a green safety light which can be found at gardening stores, but I am pretty shure that any green light will work. Use longer night cycles to speed up flowering (8-11 days) if you need bud fast, this will decrease total yeald though. Shorter dark cycles but still at least 11 hours of dark will increase total yeald. Food should be present when first flowering when ever watering, but be shure not to use too much food when watering this could burn the plant and kill it, just follow the plant food instructions. Try to keep humidity levels down during the flowering stage because the plant produces resin to keep leafs moist so the lower the humidity levels are the more resin the plant will produce thus the more ponent the buds will be. Once you feel your plant has enough flowers you can turn back the lights to 8-10 hours this will cause the plant to ripen quickly. Usually the earlyer the bud is harvsted the stronger it will be. Novice growers tend to pick buds too early, this is OK. Most people just pick enough bud with out killing the plant to last them until the plant is ready to be harvisted this is not recomended but it is also OK I mean its your plants dude. Look for the white hairs to turn orange, red, or brown and the false seed pods (you didnt let the horny little males get too close to the females did you) swell with resin. At this time you should harvist that sunbitch.
When growing marijuana harvisting is without a dout the best part of garding. Harvesting time is very important because timing and the way the bud is cured and handled has a significant effect on the final product. Stop all plant food about a week or two before harvisting. When the plants growth slows to a halt and about 3/4 of the white pistils turn brown it is time to harvest. Resin should be visible as thousands of crystalline looking glands along the flowers and small leaves begin to swell. The type of high can vary depending upon the time plants are harvested. If they are harvested a little earlier the effect will be more light (not weak at all) and cerebral, mentally and physically energizing. If plants are allowed to overripe they will be practically oozing resin and be heavier and the effect will tend more towards a heavy hitting (stoned) high leaving you burnt. To harvest a plant just cut it at about soil level and then strip off the branches, being careful not to touch those buds and get THC on your hands, break the stem that the bud is connected to and strip off the leafs. Smoke the leaves, eat them, sell them, make hash, what ever you want to do with them but dont be a bitch and waste them.
-CURING AND DRYING
To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give another ten seconds before you take them out. (IF YOU USE THIS MEATHOD YOU MUST BE VERRY CARFUL SO YOU DONT BURN YOUR BUD OR PLANTS) Another meathod is to take the buds or leaf or what ever the hell you want to cure and set it on some ten foil for about one summer day or until the weed becomes dry, but I do not recomend this as the bud looses some of its THC this way. Yet another way of cureing is to hang the buds up in a well ventlated closet or room for a day or two. but this can be hard on the nerves because you will have a few pounds of bud just hanging around for a few days.
MALES AND FEMALES
After a few weeks of flowering you will begin to sprout males. You can take out the males and have better females that have stronger buds. UNDER NO CONDITION should the males be killed or wasted, if you want stronger bud and no seeds just sell the males to some stupid ass that dosent know the differnce and tell him that you dont know if the plants are male or female. Males DO produce bud but the bud just isnt as strong as the females. However if you want seeds you MUST keep the males. Males show first and generally grow taller and sparse while females are opposite getting bushier at the top. Males have hanging pods while females have white pistils. Males can be quite potent just before they release pollen! Even when the females are not close to peak potency. The males can supply you with some temporary bud until the females are ready! Some males dont grow buds because of many reasons such as a bad childhood, not enough water, not enough light, not enough co2, or some dumbass droped him or somthing like that, but all marijuana plants have resin, this means you can make hash or hash oil with him (to learn how to make hash and hash oil go to the archives).
Hermaphrodites are plants with both sexes on the same plant! These can cause problems for growers who wish to have a seedless crop. They accomplish this by using chemicals to induce a male flower on a female plant! Then they allow the plant to pollinate itself. This results in 100% female seeds. This is unnatural and I do not recommend it! It results in the offspring having a tendency to produce the occasional male flowers on female plants, ruining sensemilla (seedless) crops! I usually recommend traditional breeding techniques which involve 100% male and 100% female plants. When using quality seeds the chance of hermaphrodites is much lower but too much stress can still cause your females to develop male flowers. Some people like the hermaphrodites but I like total control over my plants so they are stronger. You still should not WASTE the hermaphrodite plant because it still can produce bud which is worth money and some slightly burnt growers will pay you a shitload of money for them because they produce more bud than a regular plant, but just between me and you the bud is not verry strong. You should seperate the hermaphrodite plant from the others and you should NOT use the hermaphrodites seeds.
For years this has been a favored method for growing bud because weed seems to grow better without as much attention when it is growing natural habitat and anyone knows that growing outside is much easyer than growing indoors. Of corse it is much cheaper growing outdoors too. This is some peoples only option because of living with other people such as wives, parrents, girlfrends, brothers, or who the fuck ever. Of course, when growing outside you do need to hide your garden. You will need to hide, or camaflauge your crop somehow even if you are only growing a couple plants. You will neet to hide your stash because of two common marijuana growing enmeys "pigs" and "theaving pot heads", both of wich will take and smoke your weed but one will throw your ass in jail. One way to grow outside without detection is to grow your plants with corn. If the bud plant is close enough to the corn plant the corn plant will take heat off of the weed plant and will become invisible to inflered camras and corn plants are usaully large enough to hide the plants from the naked eye, hops do the same trick. Another way of hiding your plants from inflered camras is to plant each plant in a 8 gallon Bucket, underneath a pine tree, pine trees put off as much heat if not more heat as marijuana, of course do not plant the plant IN the ground but just burry a pot because the pine tree will obsorb too much water around it and this will kill your plants. Marijuana dose not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is probably a good idea to plant in small, broken patches, because people tend not to notice patterns. After the seeds are finished germating you will then need to ether start your seedlings in an indoor starter box or start them in there permenent home. Fewer plants will come up if started in there perment home but you will not have to worry about the plants groth being stuned or shocked after you transplant them. Before you plant your plants in the ground you need to prepare the soil by turning it a few times and watering a couple times a day for about a week. Adding a little but not too much good water soluble nitrogen fertilizer will work wonders for the plants and make'em grow fast as hell. Make shure the ground is watered sevral times after the fertilizer has been added. The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, putting the plants too close together or too close to any other wild flowers,weeds(non smokible weeds that is),large, or small trees will result in root tangleing and will cause stuned plants or in extreme conditions even death. Of course because of this, if you have limmeted room to plant them it is reccomended to take an eight gallon bucket and drill a few holes in the bottom so that they will have good drainage, this will save you room so that your plants will not become stuned or even die due to the roots tangling, this also makes your plants portable so if you are planting them in the woods or somthing and for some reason want to move them you can do so without having transplanting them. If you live out in the sticks, you can plant the plants on someone elses propetry, so if the plants are ever discoverd you cannot be linked to them. Of corse when doing this you need to make shure that no one sees you when planting them, watering them, or checking on them. Go to your garden at night only so you dont arouse suspesion, and bring a backpack so you can say that you are just hiking, you can carry water, plant food, and other gardening things in the backpack too. Also when planting outside you might want to put some rat posion around the growing area a week or two before you bring the plants there so that mice and chipmonks wont eat your plants. Putting a small fence around the plants helps too so that deer wont eat your stash(I rember two times in a row those fuckers ate six plants of mine and I couldnt figure out what it was until one day I caught one of those bastards in the act).
Indoors is my favrote method of growing. Indoors a plant can grow twice as big twice as fast. As you should know by now you can control the amount of light, the temputare, and the hummidity when growing inside. Most people that live with parrents, grandparrents, ect. do not wish to grow inside because of the fear of getting caught. Acually when growing indoors your chance of getting caught is less than growing outdoors. All you have to do indoors is find a closet with or without any plug-ins, lights, or shelves. Although all of these things can help you they are not nessacary. If you live with someone all you have to do is put a few boxes of winter/summer cloths in front of the closet and stack them on top of each other. This will hide your small garden and still allow you enough space to grow without having to build any extra walls or any shit like that. After you have your camaflage up, you now have to worry about your LIGHTS. Just normal lights wont work because they dont put out enought colors to keep the plant alive. Floresent lights will work, but they are not the best. Floresent lights are the cheapest lights and there lanps are the cheapest you can buy a shop light for about 8 dollars and two lights for it for about three dollars each. If using floresent lights you wont really have to worry about a hight power bill, or replacing verry expensive grow lights. There is a brand of floresents made for growing called gro-lux. These are a little more expensive to buy but they are worth it. You should keep the lights between four and ten inches away from the plants. You will probaly have to mount them on some chains or somthing. If you can afford the other grow lights made espesally for growing there are three types High Pressure Sodium (HPS), Metal Halide (MH) and Mercury Vapor. High pressure sodium are the best and are highly recommended. Metal Halide are also good lights for growing marijuana and they are a little cheaper. Mercury vapor lights are without a dout the worst lights I have ever used, the dont make plants grow worth a damn, and they run up your power bill. Do not use these lights even if one is given to you, you might be saving money on having to buy a light but you will have to pay about three times what they are worth through your power bill. Regular grow lights are the best but if you cannot afford to buy them it is ok. I grew for three years using floresents. If you are using floresents they come in three types RO (regular output) HO (high output) and VHO (verry high output). VHO's are the best with HO's running a close 2nd and then RO's, all three which will grow plants just fine. Never use the cool white types because these are the same as a regular light bulb and they dont put off a wide enough color spectrum for plants to grow. After you take care of your lights you now have to worry about VENTALATION. Air needs to be flowing in your growing space or you will almost for shure have problems. All you have to do is keep a fan turned on, this will sere three pourpeses: it will keep the humidity down which will create more resin on the plant so it wont dry up, it will strengthen the plants stalks, and keep the air flowing. Now almost evrey thing is taken care of and you are almost ready to plant. But you will now have to take care of the ODORS the plants will produce. A negitive ion machine will do nicley and these will help the plants grow but these are expensive and most people dont see any point in spending fifty dollars on a machine that will just cover up odors. Some plug-in air freshners with those round air freshners that sick on the walls along with a fan and an open window will usually do the trick.
The type of soil you use could depend on how much plant food you will have to give the plants, how much water and how strong the plants buds will be. I highly recomend the new mericle gro brand potting soil. If you use this kind of soil you will not have to feed the plants as much and you will not have to mix the soil with anything. I do not recomend just digging up dirt from your back yard, just go out and spend a few dollars on potting soil and you will not have to go through any troble with fungus or mold or sour dirt. But if you are broke or there is absolutly no way you can go out and get some potting soil you will have to buy a little more plant food and start feeding the plant a little earlyer. If using any old dirt make shure you mix some but not too much sand in with it. This will help drainage and will make it easyer for the roots to spread. Mewer also will help a great deal. Cow shit, chicken shit, really any type of shit will do. Make shure that the soil is not packed too tightly and that you have enough soil to fit in the whole contaner.
After you have bought some potting soil or prepaired the soil you are going to use you will have to put it in some kind of an pot. The container should be well sterilized especially if the container has been used previously for growing any type of plants. The permanate pot or container should be fairly large and being square would help some too. The pot should be about a half of a gallon per foot of plant. Black containers are the best because the color obsorbs light better. Make shure that the container has holes in the bottom so water can get out to help prevent over watering.
Most people are supplied with water by the city and diffrent cities add more chemicals to there water than other cities. All cities add chlorine, plants do not live long enough to acupuire a taste for chlorine and the chemical should not be used in the water you water your marijuana with. Luckly for you chlorine will evaporate if you let it sit in an open container for about twentyfour to foutyeight hours. Of corse, letting your water set dose two things, first it helps warm the water to room temperature so that your plants will not get the shock of getting drenched with cold water, and as I said earlier the chlorine evaporates. Alwys water your plants with lukewarm to room temperature water. If your water has a shit load of chlorine in it you may want to buy some anti-chlorine drops at your local fish or pet store. The main idea when you are watering your plants is to get all of the soil evenly moist all the way to the bottom of the pot because if you dont water your plants enough the roots that are not getting enough water will turn upward towards the wet soil. You must also make shure that the pot has good draniage so that the excess water will not cause the plant root rot. Too much water will also cause the soil to mildew, you cannot pack the soil too tight because the water will not be allowed to drain eveanly. Over watering can some times be worse than under watering your plants because the marijuana plant needs water and a moist enviroment to live it can still dround just like any other plant. The best way to tell if your plant needs watering is if the top of the soil is dry. If this happens, simply add a little amount of water because the top of the soil is alwys dryer than the bottom or the middle of the soil. A marijuana plant is more likley to surive a few days without water than they are to surive a hudge two day long flood. So water your plants only when they need it. They should need it only about once a day but someties it will need it twice a day. When you water make shure that you water the plant evenly through out the whole pot. Again you dont want the roots to turn upward. Whenever you water make shure that there are no standing puddles of water and no water gets on the leafs.
Plant foods have 3 main ingredients, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. These 3 ingredients are usually listed on the front label of the plant food in the order of N-P-K. A 20-20-20 plant food has a Nitrogen level of 20%, a phosphorus level of 20% and a potassium leves of 20%.
Secondary nutrients are Calcium, Sulphur and Magnesium. In trace quantities, boron, copper, molybenum, zink, iron, and manganese.
Depending on stage of growth, different nutrients are needed at different times. For rooting and germination, levels of high P nutrients with less N/K are needed. Vegetative growth needs lots of N, and human urine is one of the better sources, although it is not a complete fertilizer unto itself and it smells really, really bad when used inside. 20-20-20 with trace elements should do it; I like Miracle Grow food. Tobacco grown with potassium nitrate burns better. Plant foods with PN (P2N3) are foods such as Miracle Grow. This is an excellent fertilizer for vegetative growth, or through the flowering cycle as well. Alot of people would say that mericle grow will burn a plant, this is true but any plant food can burn a plant, make shure that the plant is at least four to eight inches tall when using ANY plant food and dont be a stupid ass and follow the instruncitons on the back. Be sure your medium has good drainage. At this point, if your watering soil based plants once a week, you can water every 3-5 days instead if you plant them in a medium with better drainage. Pearlite or lava rock will increase the drainage of the medium and make watering necessary more often. This will pump the plants; they will tend to grow faster because of the enhanced oxygen to the roots. Make sure the plant medium is almost dry before watering again, as the plant grows faster this way. An alternative is to use a standard plant food mixture once every 3 waterings. The nutrients are suspended in the medium and stored in the soil for later use. The nutrients are washed out by 2 straight waterings afterward and there is no salts build up in the soil. Stop all plant food 2 weeks before harvesting, so that the plants don't taste like plant food. I can not stress enough not to over feed your plants, if they start looking really really green just stop feeding them for a little while.
Most people think when transplanting your plants growth will stop for a few weeks no matter what, this is not true. If done right your plants will suffer little if no shock from transplanting them. The other day in the gardening section of Wal Mart I saw a transplant solution, I dont know if it works or not but I figure its worth a try. The main idea when transplanting is not to disturb the roots. You can just tap the rim of the pot when holding it upside down and the plant with the dirt intact should come out in the shape of the pot. As soon as you have done this you should put the plant in the its permanate home as soon as possible. You should dig a hole in the pot the size of the contaner you are transplanting in, so all you have to do is put the plant in the pot verry gently and cover the top of the soil with dirt. and thats all there really is to transplanting, not too complicated, hu?
you use this section to grow bud send me a picture o
While you are growing your weed if you have any problems just refer to this plant problem chart.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty but not too much water, light, fresh air, loose soil, and a good temp. and air ceriulating.
SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow smaller leaves still green
- Nitrogen dificiency -
add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges,turn dark, possibaly with a purple cast.
-Phosphorsus dificiency -
add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least veinal areas.
- Magnesium dificiency -
add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas turning dark grey.
-Potassium dificiency -
add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support or tissue.
-Boron dificiency -
add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yelloish vein systems.
-Zinc dificiency -
add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibaly yellowing.
-Molybedum dificiency -
use any plant food with a bit of molydbenum in it.
If this chart dose not help you or if the symptoms of your plant is not listed on the chart, just email me with your questions and I will post the anwsers.
I have been growing marijuana for over ten years now. I first started growing outdoors when I threw a baggie with a few seeds in it into my back yard, three months later two female plants were there, I was only twelve then. After that I have grown outdoors, indoors, a sea of green garden, and I now keep at least five plants growing at all times. I wish when I first started growing that there were grow guides on the internet. I dont think there was even an internet back then. But now when I look at some of the stupid shit thats out on the net now (like yesterday when I saw an article on a popular website telling people that bud with mold on it will get you higher than regular bud, this is a lie and will cause a lung infection) it just pisses me off. Why would anyone want to hurt or misinform a fellow bud smoker? Evrey thing I have put on this site will not kill your plants or harm anyone. I just want to share what I know with other people, the only thing I can rember anything about is how to grow bud, smoke bud, and make homade pipes out of house hold items. So if this site helps one person grow a plant, build a pipe, or anything else I will smoke a joint. Because I like smoking joints. Joints are fun. I am smoking a joint right now. and I will smoke another one after I am done with this one. Damn...