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MAKING CLONES FROM CUTTINGS
Starting cuttings is the first step in preserving a particular strain of marijuana you have grown.
Cuttings are easy to work with and will all be identical clones of the mother plant. This makes it easy to have a garden of uniform female plants and avoids hermaphrodites (male and female flowers on the same plant) seeding your garden.
The other possible advantage to using cuttings is that the age of the cuttings is the same as the mother.
Since you are using plant material that is several months old, the clones will develop faster and flower almost instantly when night cycle is introduced. The disadvantage is that clones grow less vigorously than plants started from seeds. Also you may soon get bored of the exact same high.
Start from seeds and select your best plants at harvest. Select for potency, fast maturing, and yield. Don't pull from the roots but leave the bottom 3-4 branches and a few flowers. Revert plants to 24 hours light and a vegetative growing formula. After a few weeks there will be several fast growing shoots that are perfect for taking cuttings.
The best shoots for taking cuttings are the side shoots on the lower part of the plant. These will grow roots faster than older parts of the plant.
First prepare your space for the cuttings, have a humidity tent and prepared rockwool cubes, or for newbies peat pots work great. You might also want to try putting a top of a 2 liter bottle on the top of a flower pot for a cheeper humidity controler. Just keep the cap OFF of the top of the bottle.
Take a sharp clean razor and make a clean cut in-between the nodes, your cuttings can be 3 inches to 6 inches.
Immediately place in distilled water to avoid an air bubble forming in the tiny hole in the center of the stem.
If this hole is blocked the cutting will die in 24 hours. Remove the larger fan leaves and only leave a few at the end of the cutting, the cutting must concentrate on root growth and too many leaves will result in a lower survival rate.
Soak your peat pots (or rockwool cubes), then dip the cutting in a rooting glue for 10-20 seconds.
You can obtain a rooting glue (Roots) from your local nursery, liquid hormones work best.
Place the cuttings in the holes in your rockwool cubes or peat pots. Water with a mild solution of the vitamin B1 solution (superthrive).
This helps root development but is not necessary.
Place the humidity tent over the cuttings but put a few holes so the cuttings can breath and place under 24 hour fluorescent lighting. If using a halide or sunlight place in a shaded region, this will prevent shock and increase the survival rate.
The first week is critical, keep temperature at 25*C humidity around 80% and remove any leaves that rot. The plants should not be overly wilted but for the first week this is normal.
Feed a very dilute solution of fertilizer, increasing as roots grow and show through the medium.
After 3-4 weeks your clones are rooted and you may transplant and flower as required.
How to make HASH OIL
Tools needed:
Porcelain pot or heat resistant pyrex bowl, one which is suitable for use in the oven.
cast iron skillet (frying pan larger than the porcelin pot)
Coffee filters (the re-usable gold filters work very well as well, these can be bought at supermarkets)
2 bowls
isopropyl alcohol (commonly available at pharmacies, look for alcohol that is 99% pure, denatured alcohol also works well, sometimes ispopropyl alcohol is called rubbing alcohol)
Take 1 coffee filter, and place your marijuana in it. Pour the alcohol over the marijuana in the coffee filter so that the alcohol drains into one of the bowls. Squeeze every bit of the alcohol from the marijuana into the bowl.
Now transfer the same marijuana into a clean coffee filter, and use the same alcohol to pour over it again into the second bowl.
Keep repeating this over and over again. If you have a problem with the coffee filters breaking apart while you are squeezing the marijuana, use 2 or 3 coffee filters at a time. The alcohol will turn green.
Next, take the iron skillet set it on the stove, and put the porcelain pot into the skillet. Fill the skillet with water.
Alcohol is extrememly flamable. Don't be stupid, be CAREFUL!
Do not cook the alcohol over the open flame. The water in the skillet assists in preventing the alcohol from getting too hot and helps to prevent the alcohol from igniting on fire.
Ensure your kitchen has good ventelation. Use the stove fan and other fans to move the air around in order to prevent fumes from gathering in one place and igniting.
Let the alcohol in the porcelain pot in the skillet simmer on "LOW". Make sure the skillet remains full of water. The alcohol will evaporate very very quickly. Make sure you do not let it evaporate too quickly or burn the alcohol.
Once all the alcohol has been evaporated off, you will be left with hash oil. Take a razor blade and scrape it up and smoke it.
How To Make HASH
You will need:
one half of a ounce of good marijuana buds
glass jar with a cap (12-24 oz)
strainer or some window screen
coffee filters
Get a quarter ounce of good marijuana buds. Dry them (keep temp below 90 degrees F) and crush them up with a pair of scissors or something similar.
Strain the powder through a strainer or some window screen to remove any stems, seeds, or other non leaf material.
Add the powder to a 12-24 oz, or larger tall clear glass jar with a cap, do not fill the jar with more than 1/4 mj powder.
Add very cold, or ice water till the jar is nearly (7/8 ths) full. DO NOT USE WARM OR HOT WATER. COLD, OR ICE WATER ONLY !
Put the cap securely on the water - mj mixture and shake for as long as it takes to get the powder mixed into the water, this is harder than it sounds because mj is not water soluble.
If you have access to a paint mixer, put the mix on for 5 minutes or so. If you are doing it by hand, make sure there are no clumps of plant matter then stop shaking the mix.
Wait for 30 minutes or longer, open the jar and remove the plant matter floating on the top. Put the material you remove in another jar and repeat the process to try to get the remaining resin.
Wait for 15 minutes or more, keeping the jar as still as possible, then carefully pour off the water to within 1 inch of the material at the bottom of the jar. The bottom of the jar material is the hashish.
Fill the jar with the hashish material with cold water as before, and let the mixture settle for a minimum of 15 minutes. Then carefully pour off the water to within 1 inch of the material at the bottom of the jar.
Pour the hash material through a coffee filter. Make sure you get it all, it is potent. After the water has drained through the coffee filter, use a spoon to push the resin to an edge of the coffee filter, then roll the hash up in the filter, and gently squeeze out more water. After that wrap some paper towels around the filter and drain more moisture.
Scrape the resin out of the filter and you have hashish. If you want to smoke the hash in a pipe you will have to press the resin into a solid mass by using your hands. If not, the hash will turn to a liquid when heated, and flow past your pipe screen. After you have the final result Take about another quarter of an ounce of marijuana and grind it up into a fine pouder and add it to the mixture you have made and the final result will be HASH.
How To Make Honey Oil
The Boffo Butane-PVC Hash Oil Extractor
Trash leaf to honey oil in minutes
by Indra
This method has its basis in a fascinating industrial extraction method known as Supercritical Fluid Extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas (8 oz can, camping supply store) as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase.
The only other thing needed is about $2.00 worth of PVC pipe: a section 1.5 (one and a half) feet long and 1 & 3/4" diameter (outer diameter I believe), and two end caps. Threaded PVC is not necessary.
For reasons not yet clear to those of us investigating these things unofficially, butane and CO2 (and perhaps other gas/solvents with similar ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber honey oil and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant matter.
Even unsmokable shade leaves produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil with this method.(So if you grow save those shade leaves!)
I have every reason to suspect that this would work splendidly to extract a super-strong and tasty oil from gross, unpalatable schwag commercial pot too, and of course, the better grade of herb you put it in, the better the resulting oil.
Method:
1) In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of your butane can.
2) In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the center (like a pepper shaker).
3) After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for filtration, put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it on there real tight. This is the bottom.
4) Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse powder. You want it filled, but not packed down. (Full pipe estimated at 1.5 oz capacity, but this is a guess. I did not weigh it.)
5) Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can by hand.
6) Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to be quickly carried away. Seriously.
6a) Mount the pipe (single hole-side up) over a vessel that can hold 300mL+. Beakers are perfect. A lab stand and clamp are ideal for the mounting, but a regular shop clamp or anything that can hold it sturdily is fine. (Avoid metal if you can, to reduce the chance of sparks.) Position the bottom end of the pipe immediately over (1-2") the receiving vessel to eliminate splatter loss.
7) Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via the single top hole. A whole 8-oz can takes about 10-12 seconds to evacuate. Be brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this moment would spell disaster since you have basically created an incendiary explosive device that is leaking.
8) When you've exhausted the can into the pipe, back off to a nice distance and let it do its thing. The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis as it goes. When it gets to the bottom (~30 seconds after dispensing), it begins to drain into the receiving vessel. Notice the pale, glowing yellow-green-gold hue of the extract.
Over approximately five to eight minutes, the butane extract will finish draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot of residual butane still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming from the top hole).
When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top hole with your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, NO SMOKING, unless you wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.
Being very low-boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin boiling at ambient temperature.
The receiving vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it down, slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up again simply by holding it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a little bit of warm water.
Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and marvel at its low boiling point. Again, be doing this outdoors with a nice breeze! It takes about 20 minutes or so to allow the butane to evaporate, or quicker if you help it along. You are left with a deep amber, almost orange oil of amazing purity.
The best way to collect and store the oil is probably to let all of the butane evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some anhydrous or high-% alcohol, and then pour this into a vial and let it sit out for a day or two to allow the alcohol to evaporate.
Trying to transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile temperament of butane.
I had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop those last couple drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and the oil would all be neatly contained.
But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all super boiled out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me to drop the vial.
I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can get pure or 99% isopropanol (isopropyl), use it, because THC's photosensitivity reportedly does not occur in isopropanol.
The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality, incredibly pure and potent. I remember well some of the prime honey oil hash oils that hit the market in the late 1970s, and this stuff stands up to (if not exceeds) any of them.
It's amazing how this method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk in the weed. But that's exactly what it does.
Note also that this oil has a somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than traditional hash oils; the traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or paper clip in, getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get it to drip off into your bowl) still works with this stuff, but it seems you have to be more careful with it because it doesn't heat to liquid state as quickly or in the same manner, and it can more easily be allowed to burn up on your needle. So be careful.
Those who prefer a tincture-like preparation can of course thin the product a little with a bit of warm high-percentage alcohol like Everclear or 90-whatever-% isopropyl, then drop it onto buds or let a joint absorb some, then let the alcohol evaporate.
I also observed that unlike hash oil derived from traditional methods, this product is not immediately soluble in room-temp alcohol; it needed to be warmed before it dissolved fully.
So there it is. Spread the word far and wide: honey oil is BACK
How To Make Red Honey Oil
1) completely dry and grind material to a powder. soak material in petroleum ether for several hours, but less than 24 hours. strain, saving the pet ether/oil mixture... pressing out the material thoroughly to get as much solvent/oil out of the material as possible. filter the solvent/oil mixture through a coffee filter.
2) extract pet ether/oil mixture w/ an ~ 4% sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in alcohol solution three times.
3) acidify the NaOH/oil mixture w/ HCl (diluted 2:1 or 3:1 with distilled water) to pH 3. filter the acidified mixture through a coffee filter.
4) extract acidified mixture w/ pet ether three times. evaporate off pet ether to yield red honey oil! NOTES: * this recipe works well w/ small quantities of material.
when dealing w/ large material quantities, replace 1) w/ ->
- dry, grind and soak material in 91% isopropyl alcohol for three days.
- strain and filter, saving alcohol/oil mixture.
- evaporate off alcohol down to ~ 250 - 300 ml of alcohol/oil mixture.
- extract alcohol/oil mixture w/ pet ether three times.
* extract = placing two solutions in a seperatory funnel, mixing thoroughly, and allowing the two phases to separate... given alcohol & pet ether >> pet ether = top, alcohol = bottom pet ether & NaOH soln >> pet ether = top, NaOH soln = bottom (same for pet ether and acidified NaOH solution)
* to make the NaOH solution - mix 40 mg of pure NaOH pellets into 500 ml of distilled water until dissolved thoroughly. then add 500 ml of absolute grain alcohol (everclear), yielding ~ 1 liter of the sodium hydroxide solution.
* white gas can be substituted for pet ether (verified) muriatic acid (swimming pools) can be substituted for HCl (verified) lye can be substituted for NaOH (verified)
* when dealing with leaf material, soak the material in cold water six times, for four hours each time (24 hours total), discarding the water after each soak. the material should be completely dried after the water soakings before extracting with alcohol or pet ether.
Material In : Oil Out
leaves 100g : 1g
commercial 30g : 1g
flowers/trim 10g : 1g
A+++ flowers ????? have not been there yet as far as measurable quantities, but should be better than 8:1 therefore, starting with less than 1/4 lb. of leaves yields less than 1g of oil... when the return is smaller than 1/2 gram, it usually sticks to whatever it is evaporated in, making storage a mess at best. the following is recommended:
- leaf runs of 1 to 2 lbs w/ 1st extraction into alcohol
- flower runs of 1 to 2 oz. w/ 1st extraction into pet ether
* pet ether 1st extractions yield a cleaner/clearer goo.
* especially with leaves extracted with alcohol... when extracting an alcohol/oil mixture with pet ether, the phase separation can be very difficult if not impossible to visually identify. in such cases, measurement of fluid volumes going into and coming out of the sep funnel is about the only way to accurately make the separation... and even then, there may be a need to extract more than three times and/or back washing the pet ether/oil extract with alcohol to clean it up.
"THE GREEN DRAGON"
One may extract the active ingredients from marijuana using alcohol to make a potent drink. The highest proof alcohol available should be used, preferably 190 proof grain alcohol, since the water in the alcohol will dissolve other chemicals in the marijuana that one wishes to avoid. A faster method is to heat the alcohol to sub-boiling and stir in the marijuana. Alcohol is highly flammable, please be very careful. The resulting liquid is known as Green Dragon, light to emerald green liquid. You can drink this straight, but this is not recommended. We recommend a drink of 3 parts lemon lime soda, 1 part green dragon and a dollop of honey served over ice. Let your imagination go wild to create the ultimate drink.
WARNING: DO NOT BE A DUMBASS AND TRY THIS WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL!!!
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